Installation Guide
You will need:
Turf Cutter
Vibrating Plate
Timber Frame
Wooden Pegs
Mitre Saw
Kilm dried silica sand
Rake or brush
Seaming tape
Turf Cutter
Vibrating Plate
Timber Frame
Wooden Pegs
Mitre Saw
Kilm dried silica sand
Rake or brush
Seaming tape
Geo-textile weed barrier
Small nails or staples
Turf
Stanley Knife
Galvanised Screws
Sharp sand or MOT
Glue
Small nails or staples
Turf
Stanley Knife
Galvanised Screws
Sharp sand or MOT
Glue
Installation
Assess how much grass you will need. Mark off the area to be measured it can help to mark it with a spray paint or sand, as this helps to show exactly how the grass will lie.
Remove the grass sod by hand for smaller areas or using a turf cutter for larger areas.
You should compact the ground, using a vibrating plate which can be hired from an equipment hire centre. However, very small areas or hard standing areas should be fine.
Now you are ready to put in the areas frame, we recommend 2x2 or 3x2 tanalised, treated timber. Apply the timber around the perimeter of the project area and secure with wooden pegs secured into the ground and screwed to the frame. Mitre the framework’s corners to secure a good solid base for your new lawn.
Fill your frame to level with sharp sand or MOT and compact again using a vibrating plate. The in-fill will prevent the framework from moving and create a station to screw your turf carpet to.
When your base is level secure the geo-textile weed barrier. Tack using small nails or staples to the surrounding frame.
Now you are ready to lay your turf. (Please remember the turf is 4 metres wide to get maximum use and keep joining to a minimum). Lay the artificial grass on top of the sand (as opposed to dragging it onto the base material) and leave for around 2 to 3 hours to settle. This helps stop any wrinkling or creasing. If joining please refer to joining instructions.
Cut and trim your artificial grass, using a sharp Stanley knife or scissors.
When the turf has settled and you are happy with the level, screw the turf to the perimeter framework using galvanised screws at minimum 12 inch intervals.
When the turf is down use in-fill silica sand which is kiln dried this helps to dust into the turf pile. Please note you must get an even spread over the turf, this can be applied with a fertiliser spreader or by hand. Using the back of a rake or brush, rake and matt into the surface. Putting the correct amount of sand in does three things, protects the turf, the weight helps to hold the turf down and also keeps it standing to give the look of real grass.
Assess how much grass you will need. Mark off the area to be measured it can help to mark it with a spray paint or sand, as this helps to show exactly how the grass will lie.
Remove the grass sod by hand for smaller areas or using a turf cutter for larger areas.
You should compact the ground, using a vibrating plate which can be hired from an equipment hire centre. However, very small areas or hard standing areas should be fine.
Now you are ready to put in the areas frame, we recommend 2x2 or 3x2 tanalised, treated timber. Apply the timber around the perimeter of the project area and secure with wooden pegs secured into the ground and screwed to the frame. Mitre the framework’s corners to secure a good solid base for your new lawn.
Fill your frame to level with sharp sand or MOT and compact again using a vibrating plate. The in-fill will prevent the framework from moving and create a station to screw your turf carpet to.
When your base is level secure the geo-textile weed barrier. Tack using small nails or staples to the surrounding frame.
Now you are ready to lay your turf. (Please remember the turf is 4 metres wide to get maximum use and keep joining to a minimum). Lay the artificial grass on top of the sand (as opposed to dragging it onto the base material) and leave for around 2 to 3 hours to settle. This helps stop any wrinkling or creasing. If joining please refer to joining instructions.
Cut and trim your artificial grass, using a sharp Stanley knife or scissors.
When the turf has settled and you are happy with the level, screw the turf to the perimeter framework using galvanised screws at minimum 12 inch intervals.
When the turf is down use in-fill silica sand which is kiln dried this helps to dust into the turf pile. Please note you must get an even spread over the turf, this can be applied with a fertiliser spreader or by hand. Using the back of a rake or brush, rake and matt into the surface. Putting the correct amount of sand in does three things, protects the turf, the weight helps to hold the turf down and also keeps it standing to give the look of real grass.
Joining Instructions
If you are doing a large area or awkward cuts you may need to join two pieces of turf together.This is straight forward but you must lay out your joints before applying tape and glue to ensure the joint is tidy. Please note it is easier and more forgiving to join longer pile turfs.
If you are doing a large area or awkward cuts you may need to join two pieces of turf together.This is straight forward but you must lay out your joints before applying tape and glue to ensure the joint is tidy. Please note it is easier and more forgiving to join longer pile turfs.
- Butt the joints together
- When joining try and keep the gap in between the cut joints the same distance apart as each stitching line on the latex backing. This will keep top side turf tufts uniform.
- Peel back joint and place seaming tape under the joint and apply the glue in a zig zag pattern.
- Close off the seam and apply firm pressure.